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PastReunited.com .... memories and so much more
We don’t remember days; we remember
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The terms "fashionable" and "unfashionable"
were employed to describe whether someone or something fits in with the current or even not so current, popular mode of expression.
However, more so in the modern era items termed 'not so current' may indeed fit into the term 'Retro.' Retro
fashion allows rule shifts, such as 'old is suddenly new,' thus fashionable
You have often heard one say, “A man is known by
the company he keeps”. However it seems these days that a person is more likely to be known by the attire he/she wears.
It is considered, that the biggest mistake a person can ever commit is a fashion faux pas. One thing that is inevitable in
the fashion world is change. We are consistently being presented with various advertisement gigs that portray what famous
celebrities are wearing and this has a direct impact on our lives. While shopping for clothes, a typical teenager would often
say, “I want a dress that resembles what Bono was wearing in his latest music video”. Today, fashion dictates
our lives and what we wear. Whether it is at a party or at work, we want our dress to reflect our taste and attitude. On other
occasions, we are keener on making a personal style statement.
No lucid citation can be made regarding the advent
of the London fashion culture . It dates back to the period during the Hippie culture which was originally a youth movement
that began in the United States. It started during the 1960s and spread all over the world. This was probably one of the first
major fashion influence that the world had witnessed. Hippie fashions and values had a profound impact on global culture and
influenced major areas such as television, film and popular music. One such example was the use of homemade tie-dyed t-shirts
that had become very popular.
The end of the Second World War had some more revolutionary fashion changes in store.During
the 1930s, actresses Katharine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich were often photographed wearing trousers and this made trousers
more acceptable for women.By the end of the war, women had experienced a sense of independence, were experiencing their own
individuality and were more liberalized. This allowed the women to fight for their rights and influenced a change in what
they started to wear. Gradually, this had an impact on the women of London. They became wary of the fashion culture and became
susceptible to change in what they wore.
During the early to mid 1970s, “Punk” originated as a style
in London from the designer Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcolm McLaren. Nonconformist and postmodernist in its nature
and essence, this resulted from the economic depression that was prevalent during this period in London.
Fashion is a term so popular today that I found no reason
to explain it to you. So let's come to the point. Whenever we talk about fashion, the first image that flashes in our
mind is the image of a woman. Indeed, they are women alone who are most closely associated with fashion. However, in today's
world, men are also not in isolation from fashion. But, studies reveal that the craving for fashion is much intense in women
than anyone else.
Fashion shows are being organized from time to time by various organizations in different
parts of the world. In these fashion shows, models used to wear various types of fashionable cloths and walk through the ramp,
to demonstrate these cloths to the fashion lovers over there. By and large, the changing fashion trends demonstrated through
these events are also peculiar to women. Almost 90% of the fashion events and fashion shows are aimed at introducing new types
of women clothing, designed by various fashion designers. The fashion events for men are almost none in relation to women.
The most well known fashion events organized in various parts of the world time and again include London Fashion Week,
Milan Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week, Lakme Fashion Week, Singapore Fashion Festival and so on. In all these and many other
such events, women play a vital role. Besides fashion events, there are a lot of magazines, television channels, websites
and other media for promoting fashion. Whatever, the presence of women is indispensable for the existence of fashion industry
and fashion events.
Besides women fashion clothing, other women fashion accessories include costume jewelry, women's
footwear, fashion bags, ladies leather wallets; to name a few. Fashion and women are more or less complementary to each other.
Fashion prospers due to women, and women in turn are served by fashion.
Looking Smart and attractive is a temptation hard to
resist for anyone, of any age group. It is often said that first impression is the last impression; at least if you have gone
for a job interview or a date. Looking smart, confident and attractive, adds something extra to your personality, and helps
others build an opinion about you.
In the 21st century, the newspapers, fashion magazines, television, fashion
website and fashion blogs have generated enough fashion awareness amongst people, especially the youth. Nowadays, everyone
wants to have access to the latest fashion clothing, designer dresses, that they see celebrities, the high and mighty people
wearing at parties, big movie and music launches.
Fashion by definition changes constantly and everyone these days
look forward to keep themselves adapted to the latest trends, as the growing fashion industry comes up with innovative, smart
and sexy fashion trends every other day. However, it is not possible for everyone to change their wardrobe every other day,
with changes in the fashion trends. But the temptation of looking smart and beautiful is indeed hard to resist.
The range of hairstyles available to
women began to expand as the world entered a new century in 1900. The Victorian Age was drawing to a close, the automobile
was emerging, giving people much more mobility, and a general sense of unlimited possibilities pervaded society. All of this
gave a new impetus to creating hairstyles that expressed a more open and optimistic feeling.
1900-1910
Hairstyles – Time of Transition
This decade saw a transition in hairstyles, from the more confined
styles of the Victorian era to looser, fuller hairstyles. Curiously, both long and short styles were popular, with longer,
free-flowing hair slowly gaining more converts as the decade progressed. Volume was the theme that ran through most of the
popular hairstyles, regardless of hair length. Longer hairstyles featured hair parted in the middle (with a noticeable part),
and long wavy tresses hanging below the shoulders. Shorter hairstyles generally began around the ears and ‘poofed’
up over the head in several updo styles, often held in place with barrettes and adorned with bows, or large, wide hats. 1910-1920 Hairstyles – Waves & Accessories
As the 1900s moved into the 1910s,
hairstyles started off with an emphasis on long hair that was either pinned up in elaborate updos, or made wavy and flowing.
Hats and bows were increasingly popular accessories. Nevertheless, in the mid-1910’s, a sea change occurred that would
affect women’s hairstyles for years to come. This was the short bob haircut. As these very short styles caught
on and swept America, the range of elegant hairstyles for formal events and nights out on the town diminished. The focus shifted
to what women put in their hair. The most popular accessory was a headband, often adorned with fancy beads and stitch-work
designs. One hairstyle that gained a lot of popularity (and some notoriety) was called “curtain hair.” This entailed
parting short hairstyles down the middle, then letting the hair fall across a headband worn around the middle of the head,
just above the ears. For more elegant hairstyles, women often constructed ringlet curls all along the headband, or added jeweled
pins.
1920-1930 Hairstyles – Footloose & Fancy Free
The 1920s was a decade
of huge societal changes in America. Women got the right to vote, a world war had just ended, hard liquor was banned, and
the economy was booming as industry titans emerged. A unique time in the history of hairstyles, the 1920s saw the birth of
the ‘Flapper’ era, highlighted by women with very short hair, bold new fashions, and a carefree attitude. First
noticed on famous ballroom dancer, Irene Castle, the ‘Castle bob’ swept the nation in the late 1910s and early
20s. Variations sprang up as the 1920s progressed, a result of women who began feeling their wild oats and experimenting with
newfound freedoms of expression. Formal hairstyles in the 1920s were often limited by the extremely short styles that
were so popular then. To make up for this limitation, many women chose to wear wide-brimmed hats with elegant designs and
bands. They wore their hair in very simple styles as a result. When a hat was not practical for a particular formal event,
women often used curls and mini-updos to accentuate hairstyles that were crafted from rather plain-looking everyday styles. The times always have an effect on fashions and hairstyles, regardless of the era. In just three decades, from 1900-1930,
America went from very conservative styles as the Victorian era was ending, to the wild-eyed, carefree days of short Flapper
hairstyles. All of which proves that it’s impossible to look at current hairstyles and fashion trends and make anything
more than a wild guess as to where things will be in a few years. We’ll just have to wait and watch..
The
1940s
Pierre Balmain opened his own salon in 1945. It was in a series of collections
named 'Jolie Madame' that he experienced his greatest success, from 1952 onwards. Balmain's vision of the elegantly-dressed
woman was particularly Parisian and was typified by the tailored glamour of the New Look, with its ample bust, narrow waist,
and full skirts, by mastery of cut and imaginative assemblies of fabrics in subtle color combinations. His sophisticated clientèle
was equally at home with luxurious elegance, simple tailoring, and a more natural look. Along with his haute couture work,
the talented businessman pioneered a ready-to-wear range called Florilege and also launched a number of highly successful
perfumes.
Karl Lagerfeld (born Karl Otto Lagerfeldt on September 10, 1933) is widely
recognized as one of the most influential fashion designers of the late 20th century. He has collaborated with a variety of
different fashion labels, with Chloé, Fendi and Chanel the most notable. But with contracts with companies internationally,
throughout his career, he has probably built the most complicated resume of any designer. Furthermore, he has his own labels,
which he launched in the early 1980s, including perfume and clothing. He has also played a role in equipping leading artists.
Wartime austerity lead to restrictions on the number of new clothes that
people bought and the amount of fabric that clothing manufacturers could use. Women working on war service adopted trousers
as a practical necessity. The nylon stocking was introduced in the US in 1940, to huge success, but later withdrawn as all
supplies were needed for military uses such as parachutes. When nylon stockings reappeared in the shops there were "nylon
riots" as customers fought over the first deliveries.
In
Britain, clothing was brutally rationed, with a system of "points", and the Board of Trade issued regulations for
"Utility Clothes" in 1941, and in America the War Production Board issued its Regulation L85 on March 8, 1942, specifying
restrictions for every item of women's clothing. Easily laddered stockings were a particular concern in Britain; women
were forced to either paint them on (including the back seam) or to join the WRNS, who continued to issue them, in a cunning
aid to recruitment. Later in the war, American soldiers became a source of the new nylon stockings.
The
1960s
Whilst fashion by its very definition is something that
is constantly changing, there are only so many changes clothing trends can go through before they inevitably start to borrow
ideas from previous styles; and this can be seen across many fashion crazes in recent years.
The flare and bellbottom
fashion of the late 1960s and 1970s was resurrected for a time in the late 80s to early 90s baggy music scene that emerged
from Manchester; however, this time the style was a little more casual. Furthermore, the mod style trend of the mid 1960s
has certainly seen a resurgence in recent years, with skinny proving very popular once again.
Of course, fashion
has always been closely linked with celebrity life - the glitz and glamour of the music and film industry helping to turn
the stars into role models and ultimately, global trendsetters. As such, it only requires a quick scan of the latest music
magazines to see what’s currently hot with young people across the country.
Whilst some styles can change
in a relatively short period of time, some things simply never seem to go out of fashion. Jeans, for example, is one item
of clothing that seems to have been around forever. Originating from the French phrase ‘bleu de genes’ (the blue
of Genoa), denim jeans originated in two places independently of each other; in Nimes (France) and in India, where denim trousers
were worn by sailors of Dhunga (which eventually lent its name to dungarees).
But whilst they were originally worn
by workers for their hard-wearing material and general durability, jeans became fashionable in American popular culture in
the 1950s, and became a symbol of rebellion across various youth subcultures of the time. And the rest, as the saying goes,
is history.
Jeans have been a fashion mainstay in many cultures since then, being worn casually by people of almost
all demographics. As is the case with all fashion trends, people have always sought ways to distinguish themselves from the
mainstream.
Over the years, popular denim fashions have included bellbottom, boot-cut, flare, straight-legged and
hipsters, to name but a few. The hip-hop music scene also helped to bring baggy jeans into the mainstream, often worn alongside
a baseball cap, trainers and a casual jersey. This helps to demonstrate how one simple item of clothing can reveal quite a
lot about the background and lifestyle a person chooses to follow.
Linda Morand (May 26, 1946-) was a very successful fashion model, cover-girl
and haute couture mannequin during the 1960s and 1970s. Known as Superchick Linda Morand was a modern fashion pioneer, a beacon
of revolutionary style, avant-garde beauty trends and a major face in the Mod Sixties. She appeared in national ads, TV commercials
and national catalogs.
She was discovered by Eileen Ford in 1966 and appeared in Vogue, Glamour, Mademoiselle,
Teen, Elle and many more international magazines. As was one of Vidal Sassoons house models, Christophe created her signature
style, a closely cropped asymmetric cut which hugged her head, elegantly set atop her long slim neck.
Her favorite
designer was Betsey Johnson, whose clothes she wore for many fashion layouts. She also modeled for Lilly Pulitzer. With cut
glass cheekbones, a wide-eyed gamine look and a "show stopping smile", she was a favorite of Mademoiselle magazine
editors and photographers George Barkentin, David McCabe and Gosta Petersen.
Linda Morand
Carnaby Street is a pedestrianised shopping street in London, United Kingdom,
located in the area of 'Carnaby' in the district of Soho, near Oxford Street, and just to the east of Regent Street.
The area around Carnaby Street is known simply as 'Carnaby'. It consists of twelve pedestrianised streets with 168
fashion and lifesyle retailers, including a large number of independent fashion boutiques. The nearest London Underground
station is Oxford Circus tube station (Bakerloo, Central and Victoria Lines).
The street derives its name from Karnaby House, located to its east, which
was erected in 1683. It is not known why the house was so called. The street was probably laid out in 1685 or 1686 and first
appears in the ratebooks in 1687. It was almost completely built up by 1690 with small houses.
In the 1960s, Carnaby
Street was made popular by followers of the Mod style. Many independent fashion boutiques, and designers such as Mary Quant
and 'Lord John' were located in and around Carnaby Street as well as various underground music bars such as the 'Roaring
Twenties'. With bands such as The Beatles, Small Faces, and Rolling Stones appearing in the area to work, shop, and socialize,
it became one of London's coolest destination associated with the Swinging Sixties.
There are two Westminster
City Council green plaques on Carnaby Street: the first can be found at 1 Carnaby Street and is dedicated to fashion entrepreneur
John Stephen, who was responsible for beginning the Mod fashion revolution here. The second plaque, located at 52/55 Carnaby
Street, is dedicated to the Mod pop group 'Small Faces' and their manager 'Don Arden'.
Fashion is a term so popular today that I found no reason
to explain it to you. So let's come to the point. Whenever we talk about fashion, the first image that flashes in our
mind is the image of a woman. Indeed, they are women alone who are most closely associated with fashion. However, in today's
world, men are also not in isolation from fashion. But, studies reveal that the craving for fashion is much intense in women
than anyone else.
Fashion shows are being organized from time to time by various organizations in different parts
of the world. In these fashion shows, models used to wear various types of fashionable cloths and walk through the ramp, to
demonstrate these cloths to the fashion lovers over there. By and large, the changing fashion trends demonstrated through
these events are also peculiar to women. Almost 90% of the fashion events and fashion shows are aimed at introducing new types
of women clothing, designed by various fashion designers. The fashion events for men are almost none in relation to women.
The most well known fashion events organized in various parts of the world time and again include London Fashion Week,
Milan Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week, Lakme Fashion Week, Singapore Fashion Festival and so on. In all these and many other
such events, women play a vital role. Besides fashion events, there are a lot of magazines, television channels, websites
and other media for promoting fashion. Whatever, the presence of women is indispensable for the existence of fashion industry
and fashion events.
Many of us think that fashion applies just the
clothes we wear, but in actual fact it can be applied to almost anything we do. Fashion is used to describe a means of expression.
The terms "fashionable" and "unfashionable" are used to describe something that does or does not tally
with the current popular mode of expression. Fashions can apply to many fields of human activity and thinking, including those
such as architecture, music, speech, pastimes, etiquette, politics, and technology, to name but a few. The broad use
of the term fashion when applied to clothes was used in the past as a means of people showing solidarity with other people
by their choice of clothes . However, in more realistic terms, today Modern Westerners have a wide choice of clothes
available to them, and wearing what is currently in fashion is unlikely to be exactly the same as someone else. Nowadays what
a person wears is more likely to be a reflection of their personal tastes and character, than wanting to imitate somebody
else. However, when celebrities or people in the public eye start to wear new or different clothes, people tend to copy them
and a new fashion develops, therefore the original term may still apply today. Fashion is something that varies tremendously,
not just in different eras, but also in the same generation but between different ages, social classes, professions and by
location. The term "fashionista" has developed in the 21st century as a way of describing someone who is dedicated
to fashion, and the development of this term is indicative of the role fashion and trends play in the contemporary age. Fashion by its very nature, is something that is continually changing, and when applied to clothes this happens even more
quickly than in other areas of social behaviour. What is an interesting phenomenon in regards to clothing fashions is that
whilst something quickly becomes out of fashion, it can become fashionable again at a later date when these clothes come back
into fashion again. This is something that is seen predominantly only with clothes, and not with other areas of design or
human actions. Every part of one’s appearance is subject to fashion, from makeup, hair, length of skirts, and accessories,
nothing is left untouched. Fashion houses and their fashion designers, as well as their celebrity clients are key in determining
how clothes fashions change and how quickly. They are also the main force behind determining if something is in or out of
fashion and if to bring something back in to fashion. An important part of fashion is fashion journalism, and this can be
found in every magazine, newspaper, and television article around, as well as in fashion websites and blogs. This is demonstrated
by the fact that Vogue, founded in the US in 1902, is now one of the longest-lasting and most popular magazines in the world,
and has spurned international editions around the globe. Despite the advent of television and widespread internet coverage,
press coverage is still seen by the fashion industry as the most important form of publicity in conveying the new fashion
trends to society.
London is a place with great history in the field of
fashion It is one of the favorite locations of any person related to fashion. We cannot ignore the contribution of fashion
schools in London fashion industry. These well-known fashion schools have a good reputation in the production of top designers
in shoe design, men’s clothing, women’s clothing, etc. They also have professionals in areas such as fashion photography,
fashion merchandising, fashion journalism, and lot more. If you are a student in fashion in London, you can learn pattern
cutting, garment production, designing in both manual and digital formats, the history of fashion, etc. Most of the school
is well equipped with most modern equipments. Besides all these advantages, you will be able to make a contact with successful
working designers, as many tutors usually are well designers in the fashion world. Therefore, it will be a good step from
your side in deciding to study fashion in London if you are interested in this field.
Fashion shows are becoming
common in London. Fashion shows are event conducted by different fashion designers to display his or her upcoming line of
clothing. Many models are use by these designers for presenting there designs. Models strutting catwalks at London Fashion
Week can mislead you to a conclusion that they are all of good health, but report acknowledges that there are problem with
eating disorders among models. Therefore, this is an area of great job opportunity. With the arrival of new designs, cuts,
colors, fabrics, and sizes ethical fashion industry, organic clothing , etc is getting a new boom. The rising awareness among
the people is helping in the promotion of products under fair trade market. Ethical clothes are also becoming common among
people. Considering this change in trend now many top designers where concentrating in the production of new designs in ethical
clothing.
Now with the domination of internet, people are able to see and choose the style they like. People also
have the opportunity to watch different live fashion shows through the internet. It also provides various people a chance
to talk with the fashion experts and clear there doubts about fashion. It also brings all the latest new on the industry.
Environmental fashion is another upcoming trend in the industry. Young talent is showcased and is awarded. For example,
Fashion Fringe, Man and Fashion East are a part of the London Fashion Week. The process of providing new graduates first step
on the ladder by exposing them to the press also takes place in these kinds of fashion shows. Yet anew trend is the Fashion
label designing for beautiful women's clothes using unusual fabrics and prints has been attracting several international
clientele and celebrity to the London fashion show these days.
At present, the most wanted person of the London
fashion industry is that of the designers. This is because of the reason that celebrities know that they where being judged
the world’s population by what they are wear on different occasion. For this reason alone, they turn to designers for
help. Therefore, if you are interested in choosing fashion designing, London fashion industry awaits you.
The
fashion of the early 1900s
was influenced by the advent of the automobile – as women’s dresses began
to include the dustcoat which protected clothing from the dirt coming off the road. Then as quickly as the 1920s, women’s
fashion shifted completely as the Jazz Age produced the “flapper” style – complete with short, simple fringed
dresses and long pearls. Not even a decade later, the Depression greatly changed the style of fashion – no longer
was material a luxury item; women wore what they could find and afford. The 1930s began a trend towards following movie star
fashion. And in the war-torn 1940s, a uniform-like sophistication including padded shoulders, short skirts, and a close tailored
look became popular. The 1950s were a return to the full skirt and cinched in waists. Hollywood greatly influenced the
fashion of the 50s with women looking to the styles of stars such as Marilyn Monroe after which to pattern their clothing
choices. The 60s brought a more colorful period of fashion and no one was more influential than First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy.
Women everywhere began wearing the pill box hat that Mrs. Kennedy made popular and emulating her sophisticated style. Nineteen-seventy
fashion was all about loose and comfortable – bell bottom pants and tie dye. Disco was hot in the early seventies and
didn’t fade until the end of the decade. But the disco fashionistas of the day influenced an entire generation of clothing
choices. When Madonna hit the scene in the 1980s she changed the music world as well as the world of fashion. Young girls
emulated her look of leggings, skirt, off-the-shoulder sweatshirt, headband, and bracelets. The 90s had their own look;
completely different at the end of the decade - with sleek and sophisticated - as it was from the beginning of the decade
- with acid wash jeans. Fashion will always change. But the one thing we can always count on is the influence that fashion
will have on an entire cultures.
The
1920s
The 1920s was the decade in which fashion entered the modern era. It was
the decade in which women first liberated themselves from constricting fashions and began to wear more comfortable clothes
(such as short skirts or pants). Men likewise abandoned overly formal clothes and began to wear sport clothes for the first
time. The suits which men still wear today are still based, for the most part, on those which were worn by men in the late
1920s. By the end of the Twenties, Elsa Schiaparelli stepped onto the stage to represent a younger generation. She combined
the idea of classic design from the Greeks and Romans (think "tunic") with the modern imperative for freedom of
movement. Schiaparelli wrote that the ancient Greeks "gave to their goddesses . . . the serenity of perfection and the
fabulous appearance of freedom." Her own interpretation produced gowns of elegant simplicity. Departing from the chemise,
her clothes returned to an awareness of the body beneath the gown.
In
the world of art, fashion was being influenced heavily on art movements such as surrealism. After World War I, popular art
saw a slow transition from the lush, curvilinear abstractions of art nouveau decoration to the more mechanized, smooth, and
geometric forms of art deco. Elsa Schiaparelli is one key French designer of this decade who was heavily influenced by the
“beyond the real” art and incorporated it into her designs.
As with all the female fashion during the 1920s, the evening dress progressed
to display more of the body. While the skirts were still full length, the neckline in the speakeasy and the European nightclub
became low-cut. Backless dresses also remained popular throughout the twenties.
The
1930s
The flapper dress of the 1920s gave way to the glamorous, sensuous look
of the 1930s. The big-band swing era provided a perfect backdrop for dresses that clung to the body above the hips and draped
in graceful folds below. Hemlines fell and the backless evening gown gained immense popularity. In 1930 the fashion writer
for the chic magazine New Orleanian recommended a twenty-five-dollar metallic-cloth dress with Grecian lines as "very
apropos for the young matron" at a Carnival ball.
The first fashion designer who was not merely a dressmaker
was (Charles Frederick Worth) (1826–1895). Before the former draper set up his maison couture fashion house
in Paris, fashion creation and inspiration was handled by largely unknown people, and high fashion descended from style worn
at royal courts. Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead
of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done.
It was during this period that many design houses began to
hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. The images alone could be presented to clients much more cheaply than
by producing an actual sample garment in the workroom. If the client liked the design, they ordered it and the resulting garment
made money for the house. Thus, the tradition of designers sketching out garment designs instead of presenting completed garments
on models to customers began as an economy
The
1950s
Throughout the 1950s, although it would be for the last time, women around
the world continued to submit to the trends of Parisian haute couture. Three of the most prominent of the Parisian couturiers
of the time were Cristobal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, and Pierre Balmain. The frugal prince of luxury, Cristobal Balenciaga
Esagri made his fashion debut in the late Thirties. However, it was not until the post-war years that the full scale of the
inventiveness of this highly original designer became evident. In 1951, he totally transformed the silhouette, broadening
the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of
1957. And eventually, in 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimonos.
His mastery of fabric design and creation defied belief. Balenciaga is also notable as one of the few couturiers in fashion
history who could use their own hands to design, cut, and sew the models which symbolized the height of his artistry.
Hubert de Givenchy opened his first couture house in 1952 and created a
sensation with his separates, which could be mixed and matched at will. Most renowned was his Bettina blouse made from shirting,
which was named after his top model. Soon, boutiques were opened in Rome, Zurich, and Buenos Aires. A man of immense taste
and discrimination, he was, perhaps more than any other designer of the period, an integral part of the world whose understated
elegance he helped to define.
Throughout the 1950s, although it would be for the last time, women around
the world always continued to submit to the trends of Parisian haute couture. Three of the most prominent of the Parisian
couturiers of the time were Cristobal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, and Pierre Balmain. The frugal prince of luxury, Cristobal
Balenciaga Esagri made his fashion debut in the late Thirties. However, it was not until the post-war years that the full
scale of the inventiveness of this highly original designer became evident. In 1951, he totally transformed the silhouette,
broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise
dress of 1957. And eventually, in 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like
kimonos. His mastery of fabric design and creation defied belief. Balenciaga is also notable as one of the few couturiers
in fashion history who could use their own hands to design, cut, and sew the models which symbolized the height of his artistry.
The
1970s
Deliberately offensive T-shirts were popular in the early punk scene, such
as the infamous DESTROY T-shirt sold at SEX, which featured an inverted crucifix and a Nazi Swastika. These T-shirts, like
other punk clothing items, were often intentionally torn. Other items in early British punk fashion included: Anarchy symbols;
brightly-colored or white and black dress shirts randomly covered in slogans (such as "Only Anarchists are pretty");
fake blood; patches; and deliberately controversial images (such as portraits of Marx, Stalin and Mussolini) were popular.
Leather rocker jackets and customised blazers were introduced early, and are still a common fixture of punk fashion.
Preferred footwear included military boots, motorcycle boots, Brothel creepers, Chuck Taylor All-Stars, and (later on) Dr.
Martens boots. Tapered jeans, tight leather pants, pants with leopard patterns, and bondage trousers were popular choices.
Hair was cropped and deliberately made to look messy; in reaction to the long smooth hairstyles that were common in the 1960s
and early 1970s. Hair was often dyed bright unnatural colors. Although provocative, these hairstyles were not as extreme as
later punk hairstyles, such as liberty spikes or the Mohawk hairstyle.
Other accoutrements worn by some punks
included: BDSM fashions; fishnet stockings (sometimes ripped); spike bands and other studded or spiked jewelry; safety pins
(in clothes and as body piercings); silver bracelets and heavy eyeliner worn by both men and women. Many female punks rebelled
against the stereotypical image of a woman by combining clothes that were delicate or pretty with clothes that were considered
masculine, such as combining a Ballet tutu with big, clunky boots. Many punks did not wear leather or fur because they were
vegetarian or vegan. Punk clothing sometimes incorporated everyday objects for aesthetic effect. Purposely-ripped clothes
were held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape; black bin liners (garbage bags) became dresses, shirts and skirts.
Other items added to clothing or as jewelry included razor blades and chains. Leather, rubber and vinyl clothing have been
common, possibly due to their connection with transgressive sexual practices, such as bondage and S&M.
With the popularization of disco and the increasing availability and diversity
of man-made fabrics, a drastic change occurred in mainstream fashion, the likes of which had not been seen since the 1920s.
All styles of clothing were affected by the disco style, especially those of men. Men began to wear stylish three-piece suits
(which became available in a bewildering variety of colors) which were characterized by wide lapels, wide legged or flared
trousers, and high-rise vests. Neckties became wider and bolder, and shirt collars became long and pointed in a style reminiscent
of the "Barrymore" collar that had been popular in the 1920s. The zippered jumpsuit was popular with both men and
women, and clothing inspired by modern dance (wrap-around skirts of nylon or polyester knit) also became common. Women's
shoes began to echo the 1940s, with high-heeled lower-platform mules--"Candies" made of molded plastic with a single
leather strap over the ball of the foot or "BareTraps" made of wood becoming very popular. With the demise of disco
late in 1979, these styles (which were by then being criticized as flamboyant) quickly went out of fashion. Designer jeans
and painters' pants then started to come into style.
The
history of fashion continued to evolve into the 1970's. During this era the sexual revolution and social revolutions of
the 1960's spilled over into the 1970's impacting the clothing trends of this decade. During this era clothing used
bold colors and geometric designs. Disco funk was also a design theme that colored the fashion of this time period including
mini skirts, bell bottom pants, leisure suites, hot pants, and even platform shoes.
In large part, the rise in male fashion consciousness
has to do with the emergence of popular style icons as household names. Trends in men's fashion have often been swayed
by cultural figures: from the distinctive clothes of Mick Jagger and David Bowie to the original haircuts of anyone from The
Beatles to Kevin Keegan. But with the meteoric success of David Beckham as a well-dressed celebrity in the limelight throughout
the 1990s, it became 'stylish' to be stylish again - and men seemed to start taking acute care of their clothes, hair
and general appearance.
While other famous sportsmen - like Amir Khan and Kevin Pietersen - have been making inroads
into the fashion industry, it's musicians that are leading the new generation of male style icons today. Pete Doherty's
relationship with Kate Moss, each chapter of which has been meticulously catalogued in the press, instantly projected him
into the consciousness of style gurus the world over, making him an instant fashion idol of men keen to keep up with up-and-coming
clothing trends.
Since then, the dandy-esque ways of a range of men in the public eye have become an inspiration
to the fashion-conscious in Britain: from Russell Brand to David Tennant, men's fashion trends have been immortalised
on TV, in film and photography. The result has been that investment in male retail stores has increased considerably, with
leading British fashion retailer Topman having recently opened a new flagship store in Cardiff - the store's biggest premises
outside of London.
Moreover, the recent upturn in the men's fashion stakes has had an equally influential effect
on teenagers, as much so as on young professionals and the under-40s. Harry Potter star Daniel Radcliffe, for example, is
often held up as an exemplary model of men's fashion, while young bands like the Arctic Monkeys, The Klaxons and The View
are frequently lauded for their irreverent approach to clothing and hairstyles.
Older men needn't feel left
out either - after all, the likes of Jagger and Bowie still hold sway in the fashion lottery. And while some older fashion
fans might not be able to successfully sport the trendy offerings of Beckham and Doherty, there's still plenty of in-vogue
inspiration coming from the likes of Jose Mourinho and George Clooney. After all, fashion is for life: not just for the twenty-somethings!