The
term hippie is often misunderstood by many. When thinking of the word or term hippie, many people often picture a bunch of
people with beards and headbands with peace signs and bell-bottom jeans.
Well,
there is much more to the definition of what a hippie or the hippie movement is. The term hippie was popularized in the 60s,
and is said to be derivative of the word hipster. The hippie movement originated and was popularized in the United States
of America. Since the 1960s, the hippie movement has been spread worldwide and you will most likely see many people around
the world wherever you go favoring the hippie movement.
The hippie movement was
all about peace and love and freedom. These concepts are commonly known. The 1960s was a time of big change and adjustment.
It was a time of war. I am sure that you are familiar with the Vietnam War. During this time, older men as well as young boys
who had just turned eighteen were being drafted to join the army. Many of these older men and young boys who were sent to
fight in the Vietnam War did not make it home alive. This is a very touchy subject for many, so I will not delve too deep
in it. The point that I am trying to stress is that the 60s was molded by people who fought in the war happening at that time,
the people who supported this war, and the people who sought for peace and strongly believed in love and freedom. These people
who strongly believed in love and freedom were called hippies. These concepts were the root of the hippie culture, and the
hippie movement with this foundation of beliefs has stood the test of time up until today. There are still many people who
consider themselves to be hippies.
As with many concepts and movements, there
are other things that spring from this belief and the hippie movement also has its own fashion trends and a sort of stereotyped
clothing and apparel. Now when we look at the fashion aspect of the hippie movement, things like colorful tie dye t-shirts
and patchwork bell-bottom jeans and even Boho tribal styled skirts come to mind. The hippie trends and fashions of the 60s
has survived and made it to the twenty first century.The hippie movement along with its beliefs and fashion trends has survived
up until today making it nearly fifty years old.
Vintage Clothing | Fashion Show | 1960s
Fashions
1960s fashion favourite Biba returns to
London Fashion Week
Twiggy-1960S Fashion Icon Gallery
Yves Saint Laurent tribute
Sixties fashion Carnaby Street London
The Sixties Girls
Fads have come to typify periods of time in popular
culture over the 20th century. From flagpole sitting in the 1920's, dance marathons and the zoot suits of the 1930's
and goldfish swallowing of the 1940's, fads really emerged in the 1950's, 1960's and 1970's with the coming
of the hula hoop, telephone booth stuffing, bellbottoms, platforms shoes, mood rings and the pet rock. The 1980's and
1990's are represented as well with the Rubik's Cube, Beanie Babies and the Hacky Sack.
Lisa Fonssagrives
is credited as the first supermodel.
Her image appeared on the cover of many magazines during the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s
from Town & Country, Life and the original Vanity Fair. She moved from Sweden to Paris to train for ballet. Fonssagrives
once described herself as a "good clothes hanger".
She worked with fashion photographers which included George
Hoyningen-Huene, Man Ray, Horst, Erwin Blumenfeld, George Platt Lynes, Richard Avedon, and Edgar de Evia. She married Parisian
photographer Fernand Fonssagrives in 1935; they divorced. She later married photographer Irving Penn in 1950.
Lisa Fonssagrives
died at the age of 80, survived by her second husband, Irving Penn and her two children, daughter, Mia Fonssagrives-Solow,
a costume designer and her son, Tom Penn, a designer.
Micheline Bernardini modelling one of the
first modern bikinis.
The modern bikini was invented by French engineer
Louis Réard and fashion designer Jacques Heim in Paris in 1946 and introduced on July 5 at a fashion show at Piscine
Molitor in Paris. It was a string bikini with a g-string back. It was named after Bikini Atoll, the site of a nuclear weapon
test called Operation Crossroads on July 1 in the Marshall Islands, on the reasoning that the burst of excitement it would
cause would be like the nuclear device. Monokini, a bikini variant, derives its name, as a back formation, from bikini, interpreting
the first syllable as the Latin prefix bi- "two" and substituting for it mono- "one", on the (perhaps
intentionally) mistaken notion that the bi- element was the Greek prefix meaning "two". Réard's suit
was a refinement of the work of Jacques Heim who, two months earlier, had introduced the "Atome" (named for its
size) and advertised it as the world's "smallest bathing suit". Réard "split the 'atom'"
even smaller, but could not find a model who would dare to wear his design. He ended up hiring Micheline Bernardini, a nude
dancer from the Casino de Paris as his model.
Catholic countries like Spain, Portugal and Italy banned the bikini.
Decency leagues pressured Hollywood to keep bikinis from being featured in Hollywood movies. One writer described it as a
"two piece bathing suit which reveals everything about a girl except for her mother's maiden name." Movie star
Esther Williams once said: "A bikini is a thoughtless act." Brigitte Bardot helped popularize the bikini in Europe
in the 1950s, but the United States took longer to adopt it. Modern Girl magazine wrote in 1957, "It is hardly necessary
to waste words over the so-called bikini since it is inconceivable that any girl with tact and decency would ever wear such
a thing."
Head coverings changed dramatically towards the
end of the decade as men's hats went out of style, replaced by the bandanna if anything at all. As men let their hair
grow long, the Afro became the hairstyle of choice for African Americans, while mop-top hairstyles were most popular for white
and Hispanic men, beginning as a short version around 1963 through 1964, developing into a longer style worn during 1965-66,
eventually evolving into an unkempt hippie version worn during the 1967-69 period, which gradually faded in popularity as
the 1960s became the 1970s. Women's hair styles ranged from beehive hairdos in the early part of the decade to very short
styles popularized by Twiggy just five years later. Between these extremes, the chin-length contour cut was also popular.
The pillbox hat was fashionable due almost entirely to the influence of Jacqueline Kennedy who was a style-setter throughout
the decade. Also, the 60s gave birth to the skinny jean, (slim-fit pants), worn by Audrey Hepburn; which are still popular
with young women today.
A little black dress is an evening or cocktail
dress, cut simply and often with a short skirt, originally made popular in the 1920s by the fashion designer Coco Chanel.
Intended by Chanel to be long-lasting, versatile, affordable, accessible to the widest market possible and in a neutral color,
its continued ubiquity is such that many refer to it by its abbreviation, LBD.
The "little black dress"
is considered essential to a complete wardrobe by many women and fashion observers, who believe it a "rule of fashion"
that every woman should own a simple, elegant black dress that can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion: for example,
worn with a jacket and pumps for daytime business wear or with more ornate jewelry and accessories for evening. Because it
is meant to be a staple of the wardrobe for a number of years, the style of the little black dress ideally should be as simple
as possible: a short black dress that is too clearly part of a trend would not qualify because it would soon appear dated.
Pallenberg is known for her romantic involvement
with Rolling Stones band members Brian Jones, whom she met in 1965, and Keith Richards, for whom she left Jones in 1967. There
were rumours that she also had a brief affair with Mick Jagger during the filming of Performance, a movie in which she acted
and co-wrote the script. Pallenberg strongly denied the affair in March 2007 when Performance was released on DVD. Pallenberg
and Richards had three children, a son born in 1969 named Marlon, a daughter, Angela (nee Dandelion) born in 1972 and another
boy, Tara, who was born in 1976, but died of health complications soon after birth.
Pallenberg's influence
over the development and presentation of the Rolling Stones from the late sixties throughout the seventies was significant
and has been documented in many publications on the band during this period and afterwards.
Fashion changed relatively slowly in the period
c.1500 to 1700, and the finest clothing was a valuable commodity, finding its way into inventories and wills, being remade
and, not infrequently, stolen. The limited terminology of dress began to expand from the late seventeenth century onwards,
with a proliferation of new terms indicating an increased rate of change in fashionable dress. This acceleration was underpinned
by a more sophisticated process of manufacture and further improved skills but, of course, the speed of change also maintained
the status quo. To be dressed in the height of fashion meant being rich or heavily in debt.
Mary Quant OBE FCSD (born 11 February 1934 in Kent,
England) is an English fashion designer, one of the many designers who took credit for inventing the miniskirt and hot pants.
Born to Welsh parents, Quant studied illustration at Goldsmiths College before taking a job with a couture milliner. She is
also famed for her work on pop art in fashion.Skirts had been getting shorter since about 1958 a development Quant considered
to be practical and liberating, allowing women the ability to run for a bus. The miniskirt, for which she is arguably most
famous, became one of the defining fashions of the 1960s. The miniskirt was developed separately by André Courrèges,
and there is disagreement as to who came up with the idea first. Mary Quant named the miniskirt after her favourite make of
car, the Mini. In addition to the miniskirt, Mary Quant is often credited with inventing the colored and patterned tights
that tended to accompany the garment, although these are also attributed to Cristobal Balenciaga.
Lesley Hornby (popularly known as Twiggy, born 19
September 1949) is an English supermodel, actress, and singer, now also known by her married name of Twiggy Lawson. A 1960s
pop icon known for her large eyes, long eyelashes, and thin build, she is regarded as one of the most famous models of all
time.
In the 1950s, Lucille Ball was the first woman to
show her pregnancy on TV. The I Love Lucy show brought new attention to maternity wear. Most of the maternity dresses were
two pieces with loose tops and narrow skirts. Stretch panels accommodated for the woman's growing figure. The baby boom
of the 1940s to the 1950s also caused focus on maternity wear. Even international designers such as Miguel Dorian, Givenchy,
and Norman Hartnell created maternity wear clothing lines. Despite the new emphasis on maternity wear in the 1950s maternity
wear fashions were still being photographed on non-pregnant women for advertisements.
On September 29th, 1959,
the maternity panty was patented which provided expansion in the vertical direction of the abdomen. The front panel of this
maternity undergarment was composed of a high degree of elasticity so in extreme stretched conditions, the woman could still
feel comfortable.
Big hair is a term that can refer to hairstyles
that emphasize large volume or largely styled hair. Big hair was popular in the late 1970s, as popularized by Dolly Parton
and Farrah Fawcett, a development from earlier bouffant styles. The term is also used in the punk, goth and alternative cultures
and is particularly associated with alternative fashion of the 1980s, or inspired by the period. In either usage, big hair
in modern times generally suggests an eye-catching, untidy, tangled, voluminous hairstyle, worn by conformist women in the
1970s and non-conformists of all sexes into the early and mid-1990s.
In London, home of the groovy, girls with means
could go to Bazaar, the shop started by the brilliant and creatively innovative Mary Quant (in 1955, unbelievably). Although
Quant exploded 1960s fashion, and worked like a maniac not only to create it but to brand it, showcase it, mass-market it,
advertise it, spearhead it internationally and expand it beyond clothing into own-brand make-up, shoes and lingerie, she didn't
just pop up from nowhere with a thigh-high miniskirt and a PVC raincoat.
The clothes she made for Bazaar were
youthful and daringly unconventional, but built on a framework of English fashion history. They weren't cheap, either.
She used traditional fabrics - wool flannel, men's suiting, schoolchildren's ribbed jerseys - but subversively. The
wildly cut-away pinafore dress
Brylcreem (pronounced brill-cream) is a brand name
of a men's hair grooming product. It was created in 1928 by County Chemicals at the Chemico Works in Bradford Street,
Birmingham, England. County Chemicals is also noted for 'Chemico' a very popular abrasive kitchen cleaner. Brylcreem's
purpose is to keep combed hair in place while giving it a deep shine or gloss. It is essentially an emulsion of water and
mineral oil stabilised with beeswax. Other ingredients are fragrance, calcium hydroxide, BHT, dimethyl oxazolidine, magnesium
sulfate, and stearic acid. Brylcreem is sold in a tube in the US, and both tube and pot in Europe and Canada. The two
formulations are slightly different. It is marketed in the US by Combe Incorporated; in Europe, by the Sara Lee Corporation.
The shiny "wet" look it gave to the hair was de rigueur for men's hair styles for many years in the 20th
century. Other substances, including macassar oil and petroleum jelly, had been in use for this purpose earlier and made popular
by such figures as Rudolph Valentino of silent film fame.
Brylcreem's use declined during the 1960s as men's
hair fashions changed to favor the "dry look" over the "wet look". However, it has seen a comeback since
the late 1990s. It is remarketed in Europe under a Ministry of Hair banner alongside companion gel and wax products in squeeze
bottles, rarely sold directly alongside the traditional Brylcreem.
Linda Morand.
She was one of the top models of the Sixties. Now she is a noted fashion historian and beauty expert. Lots of retro
pictures of Mod fashions and beauty.
Tribute to the Beautiful
Models of the Sixties"
These
models were my friends, my peers, my inspiration and my associates in that grand adventure, modeling in the Sixties. Even
the models who had dozens of covers and were the toast of two continents have been mostly forgotten and unheard
of by current generations.
I want to see their work enjoyed and honored
as it once was and assure that historical accuracy is maintained. Nowadays if you are not found on the Internet
you are not really that relevant."
Dorothy
Virginia Margaret Juba (December 11, 1927 – May 3, 1990), later known as Dorothy Horan, best known as Dovima, was one
of the supermodels of the 1950s.
Born in New York City, Dovima was discovered by an editor at Vogue on the sidewalk
of New York, and had a photo shoot with Irving Penn the following day. She worked closely with Richard Avedon, whose photograph
of her in a floor-length black evening gown with circus elephants—"Dovima with the Elephants"—taken
at the Cirque d'hiver, Paris, in August 1955, has become an icon. The dress was the first evening dress designed for Christian
Dior by his new assistant, Yves Saint-Laurent.
A supermodel before the term became widely known, Dovima was reputed to be the
highest-paid model of her time. She had a cameo role as an empty-headed fashion model with a Jackson Heights whine in Funny
Face (Paramount, 1957).
She died of liver cancer on May 3, 1990 (aged 62). After her death, Richard Avedon said, "She was the last of
the great elegant, aristocratic beauties... the most remarkable and unconventional beauty of her time."
'Wherever the girls went there was silence. Elly was completely blue: blue make-up, blue clothes, blue cap and
blue curls. Eva was all green, Del all violet. Some girls were all in black... in their full regalia looking as if they
had just left a Fellini set.' Barbara Hulanicki, describing the impact of the Biba look in
'From A to Biba'.
The beehive is a woman's hairstyle that resembles
a beehive. It is also known as the B-52, for its similarity to the bulbous nose of the B-52 Stratofortress bomber. It originated
in the USA in 1958 as one of a variety of elaborately teased and lacquered versions of "big hair" that developed
from earlier pageboy and bouffant styles. The peak of its popularity was in the 1960s, and it was especially popular in the
United States and other Western countries. By the late 1960s and the early 1970s, the beehive had become unfashionable.
However, the beehive remains an enduring symbol of 1960s kitsch.
In stark contrast to their mature, ultra-feminine
mothers, the women of the 1960s adopted a girlish, childlike style, with short skirts and straightened curves, reminiscent
of the look of the 1920s. At the start of the decade skirts were knee-length, but steadily became shorter and shorter until
the mini-skirt emerged in 1965. By the end of the decade they had shot well above the stocking top, making the transition
to tights inevitable.
Many of the radical changes in fashion developed in the streets of London, with such gifted
designers as Mary Quant (known for launching the mini skirt) and Barbara Hulanicki (the founder of the legendary boutique
Biba). Paris also had its share of new and revolutionary designers, including Pierre Cardin (known for his visionary and skillfully-cut
designs), André Courrèges (known for his futuristic outfits and for launching the mini skirt along with Mary
Quant), Yves Saint Laurent (known for his revolutionary yet elegant fashions), and Emanuel Ungaro (known for his imaginative
use of color and bold baroque contrasts). In the United States, Rudi Gernreich (known for his avant-garde and futuristic designs)
and James Galanos (known for his luxurious read-to-wear) were also reaching a young audience. The main outlets for these new
young fashion designers were small boutiques, selling outfits that were not exactly 'one-offs', but were made in small
quantities in a limited range of sizes and colors. However, not all designers took well to the new style and mood. In 1965,
Coco Chanel mounted a rearguard action against the exposure of the knee and Balenciaga resolutely continued to produce feminine
and conservative designs. The basic shape and style of the time was simple, neat, clean cut, and young. Synthetic fabrics
were very widely-used during the Sixties. They took dyes easily and well, giving rise to colors that were both clear and bright,
very much mirroring the mood of the period. Hats suffered a great decline and by the end of the decade they were relegated
to special occasions only. Lower kitten heels were a pretty substitute to stilettos. Pointed toes gave way to chisel shaped
toes in 1961 and to an almond toe in 1963. Flat boots also became popular with very short dresses in 1965 and eventually they
rose up the leg and reached the knee.
Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to the
design of clothing and lifestyle accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time.
Fashion design differs from costume design due to its core product having a built in obsolescence usually of one to
two seasons. A season is defined as either autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have
started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first person to sew their label into the garments that
they created. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing
created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design. Fashion designers design clothing and accessories also for
women. Some high-fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-fashion designers cater
to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow
established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of mens, womens,
and childrens fashions for the mass market. Designer brands which have a 'name' as their brand such as Calvin Klein
or Ralph Lauren are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer director.
Linda Morand (May 26, 1946-)
was a very successful fashion model, cover-girl and haute
couture mannequin during the 1960s and 1970s. Known as Superchick Linda Morand was a modern fashion pioneer, a beacon of revolutionary
style, avant-garde beauty trends and a major face in the Mod Sixties. She appeared in national ads, TV commercials and national
catalogs.
She was discovered by Eileen Ford in 1966 and appeared in Vogue, Glamour, Mademoiselle, Teen, Elle and
many more international magazines. As was one of Vidal Sassoons house models, Christophe created her signature style, a closely
cropped asymmetric cut which hugged her head, elegantly set atop her long slim neck.
Her favorite designer was
Betsey Johnson, whose clothes she wore for many fashion layouts. She also modeled for Lilly Pulitzer. With cut glass cheekbones,
a wide-eyed gamine look and a "show stopping smile", she was a favorite of Mademoiselle magazine editors and photographers
George Barkentin, David McCabe and Gosta Petersen.
In 1967, the Human Be-In in San Francisco popularized
hippie culture, leading to the legendary Summer of Love on the West Coast of the United States, and the 1969 Woodstock Festival
on the East Coast. In Mexico, the jipitecas formed La Onda Chicana and gathered at "Avándaro", while in New
Zealand, nomadic housetruckers practiced alternative lifestyles and promoted sustainable energy at Nambassa. In the United
Kingdom, mobile "peace convoys" of New age travellers made summer pilgrimages to free music festivals at Stonehenge.
The hippie subculture was originally a youth movement
that began in the United States during the early 1960s and spread around the world. The word hippie derives from hipster,
and was initially used to describe beatniks who had moved into San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury district. These people inherited
the countercultural values of the Beat generation, created their own communities, listened to psychedelic rock, embraced the
sexual revolution, and used drugs like cannabis and LSD to explore alternative states of consciousness.
There is general agreement
amongst costume historians that the origins of what we understand as fashion are to be found in the late fourteenth century.
The flowing, unemphatic full-length lines which had characterized the dress of both sexes since late antiquity were gradually
abandoned. Men's dress changed faster than women's, with the adoption of short tunics and closely-fitted garments.
This coincided with the newly formed guilds of tailors developing skills in cutting and fitting fabric to the figure, thus
allowing a much wider repertoire of stylistic effects to be achieved, with fabric and padding emphasizing or exaggerating
the contours of the body. Better trading links with the Near and Middle East had introduced wider ranges of fabric, new techniques
for their manufacture, and fresh ideas about colour and decoration. Inevitably, fashion, even in this early phase, was the
prerogative of the wealthy who could afford the rich silks and fine linens which supplemented the staple Western European
woollen fabrics. Over the next two centuries the emergence of a wealthy merchant class with international interests in trade
and banking widened demand for luxurious possessions. Sumptuary laws were introduced, prohibiting the wearing of certain fabrics
and colours, and meting out punishment to those who dared to presume that mere wealth could ensure equality of choice with
the ruling class. This reinforcement of the notion that fashion was the prerogative of the few recurred throughout the succeeding
centuries.
Go-go Boots Go-go boots changed the history of shoes fashion. Until the 60’s, boots were
not usual in women as they were considered to be masculine. You could only see a woman wearing boots when they were horse
riding and on the street when it was very rainy. After the introduction of the skirt, go-go boots became an icon of 1960 clothing,
which was also intended to accentuate women’s legs. These boots were generally knee-high and had flat or low heels.
Today, this kind of boots is a hit, and a very sexy item that goes with everything. Bikini The bikini is probably
the most important invention of the 60’s. It is the sexiest item of clothing that has been created in history. Although
it has existed for years, it was in the 60’s that the bikini came into fashion. This item of 1960 clothing has changed
the world in many aspects of life and fashion. Since its inception, the way we see the world is different: people have opened
up and started to feel free to wear comfortable clothing without being judged. In earlier times, a bikini would have been
a symbol of obscenity, but it becoming fashionable brought about a change in fashion standards and daring clothes were no
more considered to be obscene. In fact, 1960 clothing is characterized by its daring look. The Hippie Era Bell-bottom
Pants Bell-bottom pants got groovy during the 60’s. They were worn by both men and women and were a symbol of the
hippie movement. This piece of 1960 clothing has remained popular in time and is still in vogue today. At present, however,
they have undergone some modifications: for example, the width of the hem has been reduced. Peasant Blouses Peasant
blouses came into fashion with the hippie movement. They are a piece of 1960 clothing very characteristic of the era that
is still used today, especially in warm weather. At present, they are associated with summer and beach, and with a peaceful
character. Tie-Dyed Clothing Tie-dyed clothing is a symbol of the hippie
era. Today, this style is still in vogue and it's not necessarily connected with hippie ideas. There are many more
pieces of clothing that are characteristic of the 60’s. Although today we consider these designs very usual, they were
all highly revolutionary at that time. They have changed the course of fashion and are today an influence in our modern styles.
So, it may be that everything in fashion comes around
full circle in thirty years or so. Who would have thought that when hippies and flower children were experimenting with their
clothing they were actually making fashion history. In retrospect it only makes sense, because there really was a lot of thought
that went into what they were doing with their clothes when they were doing it.
There are two ways to make the
60s a part of your look and they are to buy what you are going to wear and the other is to do it yourself or have your “old
lady” do the needle work which is what a lot of hippies did. Some of what they did, such as the custom work on faded
denim jeans is rather labor intensive, so if it is bought and it is good work it is going to cost you.
One thing
that was done to jeans during the hippie era that is quick and easy to do, that most people have forgotten, is to take the
stitching out of the seam at the bottom of the leg on a pair of Levis. It has to be done after the pants have been worn and
washed several times to get the full effect.